No Problem!

Entering Bulgaria I really feel like I am on a journey. I feel I have left what I know to begin this exploration of the world. The border between Serbia and Bulgaria is lost in a beautiful landscape of green hills and expanses of yellow sunflowers. The sunset colours everything in a dense yellow light. We arrive at Sofia station, and on the way out we are faced with a huge road to cross, and desolation. Walking towards the hostel we are intimidated by the gloomy air of the streets. The pavements are lined with low, lush trees that add shadows to the already dark and deserted streets. Decrepit buildings flank newer ones. The first human sign are two people, shirtless and shoeless, rummaging through a pile of clothes set aside next to a rubbish bin. They are very focused on studying the quality of the clothes, I ask myself what they can see in this darkness. A few metres further on we pass two middle-aged couples, well dressed, intellectual air. Decrepit houses and new buildings. We arrive at the hostel and there is a little man (Stefan we later learn) waiting for us, sitting in the courtyard with two other people. He points us to the entrance and tells us to go up ... up and up, we are practically on the top floor. Stefan opens the door to the living room and in front of us, in the dark, sits a guy holding a beer. Stefan turns on the light, the guy smiles, he has a black eye. Before even saying hello he says "English?" and so we exchange a few words. After a lame check-in due to language and currency exchange problems, Stefan shows us the house and explains the rules. Stefan knows 3 words of English, the first 2 of which are 'no problem'. Refrigerator: no problem, cooker: no problem, smoking on the balcony: no problem. The third word of English is 'big'. In our room there is air conditioning, 3 buttons on the remote control are no problem, all other buttons are big problem. Shower with the curtain closed no problem. Curtain open big problem. Even the ease with which he pours us vodka in the evening while we 'chat' with him and the other two guys in the hostel is no problem. But the next day I wake up with a big problem!

Fun fact: our hostel mate's black eye was the result of an unfortunate encounter. Thus we learn a fundamental lesson for Buglaria: if you meet a man with no shirt and no shoes, run or be prepared to give money. Remember: a man so (un)dressed has nothing to lose but his trousers.

More pics of Sofia on instagram

Highlights: the night in the hostel in Sofia in the company of Medev, Paul, and Stefan. The station in Belgrade, where in addition to the bus ticket you have to buy a ticket to access the bus platform

Friendliest person: Stefan

Food: Vodka

Music: no time